We had anticipated the past leg, the one up the West coast (from Port aux Basques to the strait of Belle-Isle), as unavoidable and unpleasant: not an easy sail, and apparently not many places to take shelter. But it turned out as a good surprise, as we found interesting ports, and although we had to compose with the weather, altogether it was engaging and it added another facet to our perception of the island. If we could have called in Labrador and l’Anse aux Meadows, it would even have been more interesting, but here the weather dictated.
In contrast, we expect the coming stage (Notre-Dame bay) to be the highlight of the cruise. It might not be intuitive us Europeans (or – Bretons / Normands) as a North coast is associated with harsher weather. But in Newfoundland, the NorthCoast is the favored ground (at this season): it is in the lee of the island, sheltered from the oceanic waves raised the predominant SoutWest, the wind velocity is lesser, and as the air dries over the island landmass, there is less fog at sea. In addition, we are now well in August, which seems to be a rather fair month on average. Add to this an extraordinary number of islands and inlets: this makes it for a promising stage of the trip. And in the end yes, it did hold its promises. The main topic of our executive planning conferences is not to spot the good shelters, but which tempting places we will have to pass.
So, from St Anthony, we sail to LaScie. It is windy, but
favorable and we have a fast 9-to-5 passage. As we advance in Notre-Dame bay,
the weather turns to what we hope it to be (sunnier, drier). LaScie is nearly perfect natural round harbor,
we tie at a welcoming floating dock (a sign that says in big letters YACTHS
MOOR HERE, fixed it for you…. ) besides another yacht, Malakula; we briefly saw her in
Port-aux-Basques and it is a nice opportunity to get to know Jim, the skipper.
As you might have noticed, there is rarely a port we called in where we did not
go in conversation or even friendship with fellow sailors: it is us being exceptionally
gregarious, just that there is always curiosity and information to trade in the
community. In this case I have an extra motivation, as Jim is based in
NovaScotia, I am interested in first-hand experience of what the weather will
be in September.
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| As usual, Sélune is somewhere in the picture... |
About the weather. I planned
the trip in part based on an observation from my years in New England, where
September is actually quite a nice month (making abstraction of hurricanes…).
Traditionally, in Brittany / Ireland the summer season ends past mid-August,
but I made a bet that in Newfoundland, I would actually have a workable window
at this period. II could not confirm that with first-hand conversations or
weather statistic, but the bits I gathered seemed to go that way. And then the
planning took a momentum of its own, and this calendar came up. But now we are
nearing the end of the season, and I start speculating on my strategy to go
back home (I will be single-handed). What I saw so far and heard matches the
pattern I bet on (eg, fog season ending in July confirmed by StPierre locals,
August settled) but I could still be very wrong; I did get a couple of sharp
looks when I told sea-going locals about sailing in September. Let’s say it is
a ticking bomb, and I don’t know where the counter is.
Back to LaScie. Lovely place, very tempting to stay (the weather is beautiful). There is a tiny museum, which hosts locals playing music twice a week. The room in the tiny museum is a tiny room, but the proper number of chairs to match the number of visitors in town is arranged as we arrive – the 2 of us, and five American couples that travel together in RVs – it is clear that the audience has been very exactly evaluated (and expected to attend). Repertory is classic Newfie folk, by now we are able to recognize a few Nefie songs (I am not saying that I can sing them; of course I wish I could). I did not mention it, but when in Port-aux- Basques, we went to a music festival, starring the biggest country/folk group of the moment. If you look at the video, you can see the band singing headwind, so to say, sheets of fog rolling in right in their face - no problem. Quite a good evening, and an interesting way to mix with a large slice of the population that we would never meet otherwise. Walk back to the harbor (upwind, soft rain in the face), hitchhiking is not a thing here.
The concert in Port-Aux-Basques:
So, a lazy day in laScie. You might wonder why I am not working on the boat ? Anything to fix ? Well, everything works as expected. Or more exactly, by now, what does not work is not expected to work at all, so that’s sorted out; but none of this is functionally critical, and I am happy to report that what MUST work does.
Maybe it is time for a bit of credit to discreet heroes. You got the celebration for the bucket already. Just imagine the other pieces of tech we got to work, and do work:
the engine – zero problem.
the electrics. Tidied by Paul - no issues. (Update, since yesterday we
have a problem with the navigation lights…)
the sails (and the Michael Mullern bridge) and rigging – zero issues
the rudder, autopilot - zero
issues
the toilets – already praised by Paul.
Nothing to report.
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